FW25 PRE-COLLECTION 'DAWN'
SHOT ON THE 01.12.2024, LONDON, UK
PREVIEW - FW25 DAWN
IN A CITY LIKE LONDON, CONTRASTS COLLIDE EVERYWHERE—FROM INDUSTRIES TO LIFESTYLES -ESPECIALLY IN THE RHYTHMS OF THE NIGHT AND THE EARLY MORNING. THIS EDITORIAL IS A REFLECTION ON THE UNSPOKEN HARMONIES THAT MAKE A CITY FUNCTION, EVEN AS ITS PLAYERS GO ABOUT THEIR VASTLY DIFFERENT LIVES. IT WAS INSPIRED BY MY EXPERIENCES OF LEAVING CLUBS IN THE EARLY HOURS, RUNNING TO THE AFTERS, HEARING THE SOUNDS OF REFUSE TRUCKS AND BIRDS CHIRPING, AND CROSSING PATHS WITH PEOPLE STARTING THEIR DAY WHILE I WAS ENDING MINE.
THIS CONTRAST OF WORLDS LEFT ME THINKING ABOUT HOW INTERCONNECTED WE ALL ARE—FROM THOSE WHO CELEBRATE LIFE THROUGH NIGHTLIFE TO THOSE WHO QUIETLY PREPARE THE CITY FOR THE NEXT DAY. GROWING UP IN A SMALL TOWN IN THE SPANISH MOUNTAINS, WHERE DAILY TASKS WERE SHARED RESPONSIBILITIES, THESE REFLECTIONS FELT PERSONAL. MOVING TO LONDON, WITH ITS ENDLESS ENERGY, MADE ME APPRECIATE THE INVISIBLE LABORS THAT KEEP THIS COMPLEX CITY RUNNING.
THIS CAPSULE COLLECTION, IS ABOUT HIGHLIGHTING THESE THEMES OF CONNECTION AND BALANCE. THROUGH DESIGN, I WANTED TO BRIDGE THE AESTHETICS OF GLAMOUR AND UTILITY—SHOWCASING A HARMONY BETWEEN INDULGENCE AND RESPONSIBILITY THAT DEFINES LIFE IN THE CITY.
LIVIA GHELLI AND TING GAO SHOT BY SARAH FASSOLD (@LIVID0 & @SARAHFASSOLD)
THE NIGHTLIFE - GLAMOUR MEETS GRIT, INSPIRED BY MY TIME IN BERLIN
JUXTAPOSED AGAINST THE REIMAGINED WORKWEAR IS THE PARTY GIRL - A FIGURE WHO EMBODIES FEARLESS SELF-EXPRESSION AND COMMANDING PRESENCE. HER LOOK CENTERS ON HEAVY BLACK LEATHER BAGGY PANTS WITH A FRONT-TO-BACK ZIP, EMBODYING A MINIMALIST TAKE ON BONDAGE AND FETISH AESTHETICS ROOTED IN THE INTENSE, OVERSATURATED NIGHTLIFE CULTURE I FIRST EXPERIENCED IN BERLIN WHEN I LIVED THERE FOR OVER SIX YEARS..
MY LONG WEEKENDS SPENT AT CLUBS LIKE KITKAT, TRESOR, AND BERGHAIN WERE PIVOTAL IN SHAPING THIS VISION. THESE SPACES—WHERE NIGHTLIFE GLAMOUR MEETS URBAN HEAT—TAUGHT ME THAT RAVE FASHION IS NOT JUST BLACK PANTS AND LEATHER JACKETS, AS THE STEREOTYPE SUGGESTS. IT'S ABOUT CODES AND ARCHETYPES, HEAVY HARDWARE, AND A FETISHISTIC APPEAL THAT SPEAKS TO BOTH FUNCTION AND INDIVIDUALITY.
HER HALF-FUR, HALF-LEATHER BIKER JACKET REPRESENTS THIS DELICATE BALANCE OF EDGE AND LUXURY, COMPLEMENTED BY AN OVERSIZED CLUTCH WITH A BOLTED STRAP—A SUBTLE NOD TO S&M WHIPS. THIS DESIGN REFLECTS A SENSIBILITY THAT A WOMAN’S PARTY LOOK DOESN'T RELY ON BEING REVEALING TO BE POWERFUL. INSTEAD, IT CELEBRATES A TOMBOYISH, DOMINANT ENERGY—THE KIND OF PRESENCE THAT SAYS SHE KNOWS EXACTLY WHERE SHE’S HEADED AND WON’T BE SWAYED.
TOGETHER, THE PARTY GIRL AND THE REIMAGINED WORKWEAR CREATE A VISUAL DIALOGUE: GLAMOUR COLLIDING WITH GRIT IN THE LIMINAL MOMENTS THAT DEFINE THE CITY’S EARLY MORNING HOURS. THIS CAPSULE EXPLORES THAT TENSION, CELEBRATING THE HARMONY BETWEEN THE INDULGENCE OF NIGHTLIFE AND THE INTEGRITY OF THE WORK THAT SUPPORTS IT.
BEYZA SHOT BY SARAH FASSOLD (@BEYZAGURAY & @SARAHFASSOLD)
WORKWEAR AND CONNECTION - THE CITY'S QUIET RHYTHMS
HOODIES EMBELLISHED WITH VINTAGE WESTERN REINS FROM MY MOTHER’S RIDING DAYS ARE RECURRING IN THIS COLLECTION. THESE INTRICATE DETAILS, SECURED WITH SIGNATURE METAL BOLTS, BRING AN ELEMENT OF PERSONAL HISTORY INTO THE PIECES. THEY ARE PAIRED WITH HAND-SPRAYED RUBBER GLOVES, OVERSIZED RUBBER BOOTS, AND PATCHWORKED SHEARLING BOMBER JACKETS MADE FROM ITALIAN DEADSTOCK MATERIALS SOURCED LOCALLY.
THIS THOUGHTFUL MATERIAL CHOICE SPEAKS TO A LARGER MESSAGE: HOW DEEPLY INTERCONNECTED WE ALL ARE. WHILE THE GLAMOUR OF NIGHTLIFE SPARKLES, IT IS THE QUIET LABORS OF INDIVIDUALS—PEOPLE WHO WORK TO SUSTAIN AND PREPARE THE CITY FOR THE NEXT DAY—THAT KEEP EVERYTHING RUNNING SMOOTHLY.
THIS CAPSULE COLLECTION SEEKS TO EXPLORE THE THEME OF INTERDEPENDENCE, HONORING THE WORK OF THOSE WHOSE EFFORTS OFTEN GO UNNOTICED BUT REMAIN ESSENTIAL. THROUGH THE STORYTELLING AND CRAFTSMANSHIP OF THESE PIECES, I HOPE TO BRING ATTENTION AND RESPECT TO THE OVERLOOKED RHYTHMS OF URBAN LIFE. THE JUXTAPOSITION OF VINTAGE ELEMENTS WITH MODERN TECHNIQUES SYMBOLIZES THE CONNECTION BETWEEN PAST AND PRESENT, GLAMOUR AND FUNCTIONALITY, INDIVIDUALITY AND COMMUNITY.
THIS DIALOGUE OF CONTRASTS CELEBRATES THE INHERENT BEAUTY AND NECESSITY OF COLLABORATION IN URBAN SPACES. IT IS A REMINDER THAT BEHIND THE SCENES OF EVERY DAZZLING CITY MOMENT IS A TEAM OF INDIVIDUALS WHO QUIETLY CONTRIBUTE TO ITS MAGIC.
LIVIA GHELLI SHOT BY SARAH FASSOLD (@LIVID0 & @SARAHFASSOLD)
TING GAO SHOT BY SARAH FASSOLD (@BABYTINGX & @SARAHFASSOLD)
MARTIN PROTHMANN AT STABLE CA. 1995 BERLIN, GERMANY
PERSONAL INSPIRATION - DIRTY GLAMOUR AND ITS ENDURING APPEAL
AS A REFERENCE FOR THIS PROJECT, I LOOKED BACK AT OLD FAMILY PHOTOS, PARTICULARLY ONE OF MY FATHER AT THE STABLE. GROWING UP IN AN EQUESTRIAN BACKGROUND, I WAS SURROUNDED BY A WORLD THAT EFFORTLESSLY BALANCED GLAMOUR AND GRIT. THERE’S A DISTINCT CHARM IN THE POLISHED KNEE-HIGH LEATHER BOOTS AND EXPENSIVE LEATHER SADDLES, WHICH CONTRASTED SHARPLY WITH THE REALITIES OF SANDY ARENAS, SWEATY HORSES, AND THE HARD PHYSICAL WORK REQUIRED TO CARE FOR THEM.
EQUESTRIAN WORK, MUCH LIKE MAINTAINING A CITY, REQUIRES NAVIGATING THIS CONTRAST—A SPACE WHERE PRESTIGE AND LABOR INTERSECT. LUXURY HORSE SHOWS SPONSORED BY HIGH-END BRANDS AND BIG CAR COMPANIES EXIST SIDE BY SIDE WITH THE HUMBLE, UNGLAMOROUS TASKS OF CLEANING STABLES AND TENDING TO ANIMALS. THIS IDEA OF “DIRTY GLAMOUR” HAS BECOME CENTRAL TO MY BRAND, REPRESENTING THE ABILITY TO ELEVATE FUNCTIONALITY WHILE STAYING TRUE TO THE WORK THAT DEFINES IT.
THIS CAPSULE COLLECTION IS A DIRECT REFLECTION OF THESE IDEAS. IT CELEBRATES THE INTERPLAY OF INDULGENCE AND RESPONSIBILITY, A THEME I OFTEN OBSERVE IN CITY LIFE. AFTER NIGHTS OUT IN LONDON, I’VE BEEN STRUCK BY THE CONTRAST BETWEEN THE VIBRANT ENERGY OF NIGHTLIFE AND THE MORNING REALITY OF LITTERED STREETS—STREWN WITH BOTTLES, CANS, AND CHICKEN BONES—WAITING TO BE CLEANED. THIS VISUAL AND PHYSICAL JUXTAPOSITION SERVES AS A REMINDER OF OUR SHARED RESPONSIBILITY TO THE SPACES WE INHABIT.
THE REFERENCE IMAGE OF MY FATHER IN HIS HIGH-KNEE BOOTS AT THE STABLE HAS REMAINED A CONSTANT SOURCE OF INSPIRATION. IT PERFECTLY CAPTURES THE TENSION BETWEEN FUNCTIONALITY AND STYLE, BLENDING CAMP AND MASCULINITY IN A WAY THAT FEELS BOTH FAMILIAR AND ASPIRATIONAL. IT’S A SYMBOL OF THE AESTHETIC BALANCE I STRIVE FOR IN MY DESIGNS AND EMBODIES THE ESSENCE OF THIS PROJECT: CELEBRATING THE OFTEN-OVERLOOKED BEAUTY IN LABOR AND INTERCONNECTION.
COMMUNITY AND SENSE OF BELONGING
FOR MY GRADUATE COLLECTION, I BRIEFLY EXPLORED A THEME THAT HAS RESONATED THROUGHOUT MY LIFE: A FEELING OF NOT FULLY BELONGING IN THE SPACES I OCCUPIED. THIS WAS PARTICULARLY TRUE DURING MY SCHOOLING IN SPAIN, WHERE I ATTENDED AN INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL. DESPITE THE EXPECTATION THAT SUCH INSTITUTIONS WOULD BE PROGRESSIVE AND OPEN-MINDED, I OFTEN ENCOUNTERED SILENT JUDGMENTS TOWARD ANYONE WHO DIDN’T QUITE FIT THE MOLDS OF WHAT IS CONSIDERED 'NORMAL'. IT WAS A REMINDER THAT EVEN IN CULTURALLY DIVERSE ENVIRONMENTS, ACCEPTANCE IS NOT ALWAYS A GIVEN.
THIS CONTRASTED SHARPLY WITH MY EXPERIENCE WHEN I MOVED TO BERLIN IN 2013 AND IMMERSED MYSELF IN THE CITY'S VIBRANT NIGHTLIFE. HERE, I FOUND A COMMUNITY ROOTED IN ACCEPTANCE AND SELF-EXPRESSION. IN THE NIGHTLIFE SCENE, MUCH LIKE IN SPORTS, PEOPLE COME TOGETHER WITH A SHARED PURPOSE. WHERE SPORTS ARE ABOUT TRAINING, PERSEVERANCE, AND WINNING NIGHTLIFE IS ABOUT DANCING, SOCIALIZING, AND EMBRACING DESIRE. AT THEIR CORE, BOTH ENVIRONMENTS CELEBRATE A SINGULAR FOCUS AND UNAPOLOGETIC PASSION.
THIS CONTRAST REMINDED ME OF HOW, IN SOME SETTINGS LIKE SCHOOL, BOREDOM OR A LACK OF PURPOSE CAN SOMETIMES BREED HOSTILITY TOWARD THOSE WHO EXPRESS THEIR INDIVIDUALITY. MEANWHILE, IN SPACES THAT CELEBRATE PURPOSE—WHETHER ON A DANCE FLOOR OR IN A SPORTS ARENA—COMMUNITY THRIVES. THIS TENSION BETWEEN CONFORMITY AND BELONGING CONTINUES TO INFORM MY WORK, DRIVING ME TO CREATE COLLECTIONS THAT ENCOURAGE SELF-EXPRESSION AND CHAMPION THE BEAUTY OF INDIVIDUALITY.
LIVIA GHELLI SHOT BY SARAH FASSOLD (@LIVID0 & @SARAHFASSOLD)
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LIVIA GHELLI SHOT BY SARAH FASSOLD (@LIVID0 & @SARAHFASSOLD)
LIVIA GHELLI AND TING GAO SHOT BY SARAH FASSOLD (@LIVID0 & @SARAHFASSOLD)
NATURE OF THE MATERIALS USED AND TECHNIQUES
LEATHER ONCE AGAIN PLAYS A CENTRAL ROLE IN THIS COLLECTION, CELEBRATED FOR ITS INHERENT DURABILITY AND FUNCTIONALITY. I PARTICULARLY ENJOY INCORPORATING HARDWARE ELEMENTS INTO MY DESIGNS. THERE’S A TANGIBLE SENSE OF LUXURY IN ITEMS THAT HAVE WEIGHT TO THEM—A PHYSICAL PRESENCE THAT SPEAKS TO THEIR QUALITY. IT’S NOT SIMPLY ABOUT ADDING METAL PIECES; RATHER, IT’S ABOUT THE BALANCE BETWEEN DESIGN AND MATERIAL. IF AN ITEM WITH METAL HARDWARE FEELS TOO LIGHT, IT OFTEN INDICATES A COMPROMISE IN QUALITY, WHICH I AIM TO AVOID.
FOR THE SS25 COLLECTION, I EXPLORED HAND-STITCHED FINISHES, A TECHNIQUE I CONTINUED TO DEVELOP IN THIS PRE-COLLECTION. SADDLE STITCHING, INSPIRED BY TRADITIONAL SADDLERY CRAFT, FEELS LIKE A NATURAL EXTENSION OF MY DESIGN PHILOSOPHY. THE PROCESS OF MAKING A HANDMADE SADDLE CAN TAKE UP TO 100 HOURS, A FACT THAT HIGHLIGHTS THE VALUE OF TIME-INTENSIVE ARTISANSHIP.
WITH THIS IN MIND, THE BAGS IN THIS COLLECTION FEATURE EDGE-STITCHING DONE USING THE SADDLE LOOP STITCH. THIS TECHNIQUE WAS METICULOUSLY REFINED THROUGHOUT THE DESIGN PROCESS. EACH HOLE IS HAND-PUNCTURED BEFORE BEING STITCHED, WITH EVERY THREAD TENSION CAREFULLY BALANCED TO ENSURE CONSISTENCY. THE WORK IS CHALLENGING BUT REWARDING, AS IT PRODUCES A PIECE THAT FEELS BOTH TIMELESS AND TACTILELY SIGNIFICANT.
'NUMB' A ACRYLIC ON WOOD PAINTING 180CM x 50CM (━) ACRYLIC, OIL & OIL PASTELS ON WOOD
COLOUR
AS PART OF THE FW25 COLLECTION, I’VE BEEN EXPLORING COLOR THEMES THAT REPRESENT MY BRAND AS A WHOLE. FOR THIS PREVIEW, I WANT TO HIGHLIGHT THE PAINTING NUMB, CREATED IN THE GARDEN OF MY FLAT IN 2021. THIS WAS DURING THE PANDEMIC, A TIME I SPENT REFLECTING, PAINTING, AND SMOKING CIGARETTES WITH MY PARTNER IN THE GARDEN OF OUR FLAT. AT THE TIME, I WAS STILL AT UNIVERSITY, AND THE TRANSITION TO ONLINE LEARNING FELT UNCERTAIN AND CHALLENGING.
NUMB IS AN ACRYLIC, OIL, AND OIL PASTEL PAINTING ON WOOD, MEASURING 180CM X 50CM. IT REFLECTS A PERIOD OF STILLNESS AND INTROSPECTION DURING A TIME OF GREAT CHANGE. THE CREATIVE PROCESS WAS NOT DRIVEN BY AMBITION, BUT RATHER BY THE QUIET NEED TO FIND PURPOSE AND EXPRESSION IN A WORLD THAT HAD SUDDENLY BECOME DISTANT.